Tuesday October 23th... We left Cape Charles, the tip of the "Delmarva" peninsula....we had a smooth crossing of the lower Chesapeake Bay. The Bay Bridge across the entrance of the Chesapeake was off to our southeast as we dodged tankers and warships sailing into Hampton Roads and Norfolk harbor.
ICW Mile "0"
We docked at Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth Va. on the Elizabeth River, the beginning of the ICW, mile marker "0". The Insurance Companies will not let us be below Latitude 35 degrees North, before November 1st, (Hurricane Season), which is Oriental, North Carolina/Cape Hatteras. So we stayed two days in Portsmouth/Norfolk area.
The warships, aircraft carriers, destroyers and supply ships were docked along the river; most in dry dock, undergoing refitting ... an impressive sight. Often the river was closed as a ship was being moved or heading out to sea. Needless to say security was obvious, with patrol boats everywhere. Dinners ashore and touring the Naval Museum and the battleship Wisconsin were the highlights of our two days in Portsmouth/Norfolk.Thursday, October 25th... After a rainy morning, conversing with bridge tenders, waiting for trains and traffic to pass for bridges to open, we realized we were not alone on the migration south ... we made all of 28 miles to Pungo Ferry along the Virginia Cut south, rather then the Dismal Swamp...there is a major drought in Va. and N.C. and not much water in the swamp.
ICW mile "28"
Pungo Ferry Marina was a grand place 20+ years ago...not today...Capt Mud repeated many times that the zip code here was "00000"... friendly folks. The big event for the dock master was anticipating his evening's TV dinner. This is where we had our first invasion of swamp flies ... Mrs. Mud noted that these are educated flies ..."knowing how to avoid the fly paper".
Friday October 26th...We left the Pungo River (and the flies) sailed across the Currituck Sound (crossed over to North Carolina) to the North River canal and docked at Coinjock Marina on the canal. Highlight here was a prime rib dinner at a good restaurant in the Marina ... it was the only game within 50 miles...we had to make reservations. (opting for 16oz. rather then the 32 oz. prime rib).
ICW mile "49"
Saturday October 27th ...We had a good weather window, winds NE at 15 to 20 to cross the Albemarle Sound to the Alligator River. The sound is shallow and can develop a 3-4 ft chop with a strong SE wind ... a 30 mile sail took us to the Alligator River Marina where "Miss Wanda" greeted us and Capt Haborwatch saw the Red Sox take a 3 to 0 lead in the series...(his grandson Sam, a devoted Sox fan was happy in Duxbury, Harborwatch, a Yankee fan, is still recovering)...
ICW mile "84"
Sunday October28th ... Weather turned cool ... 40 degrees ... time for gloves and foul weather gear... strong NE winds 15 t0 20+ continued for most of the day, although it warmed up by noon. A sleigh ride down the Alligator river to the Alligator river canal, (a 30 mile passage) to Bellhaven, N.C....
Southern Style Hospitality... River Forest Marina was part of a complex including a circa 1890 Victorian mansion Hotel ...must have been a great place to stay in the 40's and 50's when it was visited by James Cagney, Tallueh Bankhead, and Walter Cronkite... True southern cooking, fried chicken, ham, yams and pork chops ...Grits and eggs for breakfast. In town, the Capt's got haircuts and the mates shopped ... Boston won the series ... all's well in the world.
Stayed an extra day...took two golf carts, (that was a kick, you can drive on the highway ) and went shopping to resupply the galley.
ICW mile "135"
Tuesday October 30...Headed across the Pamlico Sound, favorable NE winds continued, 10 to 15kts and made Oriental (the sailing capitol of North Carolina, they say there are 900 people and and 2500 sailboats), by early afternoon. A neat little town with good marine supply and hardware stores...The mates "shopped til they dropped" in the many galleries.
We are now in shrimper country...expected to see "Bubba" or "Forest Gump" on the decks of the shrimp boats or the docks. Watching the shrimpers with there spreaders and long nets in the sunset was a beautiful sight. We dined at "Steamers" with all you can eat shrimp...but service was sooo slooow ...we're learin' th't in the south, nothin' happens fast!
Stayed a second day at Oriental Marina, and enjoyed the local scene...Halloween, Capt Mud's favorite holiday! Hay rides, pumpkins and all....We're waiting for 1 November, so we could go below latitude 35 and keep the insurance company happy...and a nice tiki bar.
ICW mile "181"
On to Beauford/Moorehead City and the Bogue Sound...
OOPS....Mother nature had something to say! "NOEL"....that's not a Christmas Carol....
Thursday November 1st....Forecast NE 35 to 50 kt winds...heavy seas on the outside, wind driven tides and flooding on the inside, ICW...Strong high pressure front tonight and the tropical storm, Noel, coming up the coast... We had to leave Oriental Marina, our reservation ended and "everyone" is coming off the Ocean and picking up hooks and heading for marinas...could not get into Moorehead City, south, so we were able to find a new marina nearby, Whittaker Pointe Marina, just opened ... not yet in the books, but a great spot for the next two nights...
We are hunkered down, extra dock lines and fenders. Expect the wind driven tide to flood the docks tonight...
......and I had time to write the blog....photos to follow....I will set up a site on "web shots . com" with all the photos...easier then posting on blog...
Hope to leave Friday/Saturday and make Swansboro N.C. ICW mile 239...
2 comments:
Hope you guys survived the hurricane with minimal adventure. Looks like she is heading for Chatham now.
Hi Guys:
Where are you now? It is November 10. Had a nice time with you when we finally got to you. Have a safe trip.
Betty-Lou and Mal
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