Friday, November 30, 2007

On the Ocean Blue

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Monday, November 19, 2007

Sunday, November 11, 2007

ICW Mile 205 to 716.5 Morehead City, North Carolina to Fernandina, Florida

"Noel" moves off the coast of North Carolina...and heads north.

Friday, November 2nd, we "hunkered down" and awaited the arrival "Noel"...Friends from Chatham, Betty Lou and Malcolm 'M', with a home up the Neuse River, in New Bern, N.C., picked us up for dinner in Oriental.

Saturday, November 3rd, after a stormy night tied up to the fixed dock, at Whittaker Pointe Marina, (with all the lines and fenders we had and multiple visits during the night to adjust lines) the high winds (40 - 50 Kts) subsided to 20 kts and we headed south to Morehead City and the Dockside Marina. Beaufort/Morehead City, on the coast was hit hard (50-70kts) so staying in Oriental was a good decision. "Noel" headed north to visit New England and Cape Cod...

ICW mile "205"

Sunday, November 4th, as we left Beaufort and Morehead City, we entered Bouge Sound, the waters separating the coast of North Carolina and the barrier islands. Long low marshes, fish piers and lots of company as other "Snow Birds" joined the parade south. Interesting folks from as far north as Prince Edward Island, Montreal, Quebec and the mid west. On to a small Harbour Village Marina in Topsail, N.C.

ICW mile "267"

Monday, November 5th, on to the Cape Fear River N.C. and the Southport Marina. The weather turned cooler, 40's in the evenings and 60's during the day, but we have been lucky with clear blue sky's and a light North Easterly wind. The Captains and second mates dined on Oysters Rockefeller and fabulous fish dinners at a local hot spot.

ICW mile "309"

Tuesday, November 6th, we push on to north of Charleston through the forested ICW to Osprey Marina, on the Wiccamaw River, South Carolina, where Mrs. Mud negotiated a visit to the local supermarket to fill the larder...The weather remained "cool" during the evenings and we took to the sleeping bags and the propane stoves for extra warmth. I thought we were in the south.... maybe Georgia will be warmer... Blue sky's and light winds continued. Passed through Myrtle Beach numerous golf courses and more expensive summer homes condos and hotels.

ICW mile "373"

Wednesday, November 7th, we arrived (late) at the Isle of Palms Marina. We rushed to make the 6pm bridge opening, (at 5:30 pm there was a little light, at 6pm it was totally black). After a 12 hour day, during which Capt. Mud lived up to his name, he went hard aground and had to be keged off and towed off a bar. A passing Canadian Samaritan, who quickly launched his dingy "Boat 2 Go" as Malabar towed. No one thought to take pictures. Everything on board Heritage was rearranged!

ICW mile "456"

Thursday, November 8th, Downtown Marina, our last stop in South Carolina,..Beaufort South Carolina...spelled the same as Beaufort North Carolina...but pronounced differently..ask the "locals". Getting into "grits and biscuits" country. Very friendly folks. The first mates are enjoying the local galleries and shops. River Dolphins appear often to follow the boats... a fascinating sight.

ICW mile "536"

Friday, November 9th, passing the cemetery from "Midnight in the Garden of Evil" we tie up at Thunderbolt Marina. Thunderbolt Georgia, once the playground of Savannah, now a sleepy little burb. Their claim to fame, morning newspapers delivered with a box of Krispy Kremes. We also got "local information" about negotiating Hell Gate and the numerous narrows. Following a winding series of channels we pass Johnny Mercer's "Moon River" as well as the Vernon, Ogeechee, and South Newport Rivers.


ICW mile "583

Saturday, November10th, we traverse the wider St. Catherine and Sapelo sounds. This night we anchor up the Duplin River, Georgia. The night sky is brilliant with millions of stars as we are in the middle of nowhere..no towns or cities within 50 miles and ambient light. Shrimp boats are everywhere, as they drag their nets through the rivers and sounds. Interesting to see them anchored in the middle of marshes and along the banks. Local fisherman, spin casting and commerical fisherman working the fish and crap traps.

ICW mile "649"

Sunday, November 11th, as we head out for Florida in the morning we greet a mooring neighbor headed out into the Atlantic toward Jacksonville inlet. We take the opportunity to join him and sail the "outside" route to St. Mary's/Fernandina inlet. We hit the high seas out Doboy Sound, passing inlets at Altamaha, St. Simons and St. Andrew ... literally rolling into Fernandina, Florida. North East winds 10 to 15 kts, not the problem...but seas, sometimes 5 to 7 feet, make it a "bumpy" ride, (life jackets and tethers), especially as we roll in to St Mary's inlet. ( no soup and sandwiches for lunch, it's whatever snacks we can snatch from the galley on the few trips below).

But the good news ..it's Florida and it's warm.

ICW mile "716"

Florida. At last. Two hundred and fifty miles to go!!!

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Norfolk Va. InterCoastal Waterway "ICW" mile "0" to Oriental Va. Latitude 35 Degrees North.

The Saga Continues....

Tuesday October 23th... We left Cape Charles, the tip of the "Delmarva" peninsula....we had a smooth crossing of the lower Chesapeake Bay. The Bay Bridge across the entrance of the Chesapeake was off to our southeast as we dodged tankers and warships sailing into Hampton Roads and Norfolk harbor.


ICW Mile "0"

We docked at Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth Va. on the Elizabeth River, the beginning of the ICW, mile marker "0". The Insurance Companies will not let us be below Latitude 35 degrees North, before November 1st, (Hurricane Season), which is Oriental, North Carolina/Cape Hatteras. So we stayed two days in Portsmouth/Norfolk area.

The warships, aircraft carriers, destroyers and supply ships were docked along the river; most in dry dock, undergoing refitting ... an impressive sight. Often the river was closed as a ship was being moved or heading out to sea. Needless to say security was obvious, with patrol boats everywhere. Dinners ashore and touring the Naval Museum and the battleship Wisconsin were the highlights of our two days in Portsmouth/Norfolk.

Thursday, October 25th... After a rainy morning, conversing with bridge tenders, waiting for trains and traffic to pass for bridges to open, we realized we were not alone on the migration south ... we made all of 28 miles to Pungo Ferry along the Virginia Cut south, rather then the Dismal Swamp...there is a major drought in Va. and N.C. and not much water in the swamp.


ICW mile "28"

This was also our first experience transversing a long 20 mile "ditch" Pungo Canal...it was dismal enough for us...although there were beautiful sights along the way.

Pungo Ferry Marina was a grand place 20+ years ago...not today...Capt Mud repeated many times that the zip code here was "00000"... friendly folks. The big event for the dock master was anticipating his evening's TV dinner. This is where we had our first invasion of swamp flies ... Mrs. Mud noted that these are educated flies ..."knowing how to avoid the fly paper".

Friday October 26th...We left the Pungo River (and the flies) sailed across the Currituck Sound (crossed over to North Carolina) to the North River canal and docked at Coinjock Marina on the canal. Highlight here was a prime rib dinner at a good restaurant in the Marina ... it was the only game within 50 miles...we had to make reservations. (opting for 16oz. rather then the 32 oz. prime rib).

ICW mile "49"

Saturday October 27th ...We had a good weather window, winds NE at 15 to 20 to cross the Albemarle Sound to the Alligator River. The sound is shallow and can develop a 3-4 ft chop with a strong SE wind ... a 30 mile sail took us to the Alligator River Marina where "Miss Wanda" greeted us and Capt Haborwatch saw the Red Sox take a 3 to 0 lead in the series...(his grandson Sam, a devoted Sox fan was happy in Duxbury, Harborwatch, a Yankee fan, is still recovering)...

ICW mile "84"

Sunday October28th ... Weather turned cool ... 40 degrees ... time for gloves and foul weather gear... strong NE winds 15 t0 20+ continued for most of the day, although it warmed up by noon. A sleigh ride down the Alligator river to the Alligator river canal, (a 30 mile passage) to Bellhaven, N.C....

Southern Style Hospitality... River Forest Marina was part of a complex including a circa 1890 Victorian mansion Hotel ...must have been a great place to stay in the 40's and 50's when it was visited by James Cagney, Tallueh Bankhead, and Walter Cronkite... True southern cooking, fried chicken, ham, yams and pork chops ...Grits and eggs for breakfast. In town, the Capt's got haircuts and the mates shopped ... Boston won the series ... all's well in the world.
Stayed an extra day...took two golf carts, (that was a kick, you can drive on the highway ) and went shopping to resupply the galley.

ICW mile "135"

Tuesday October 30...Headed across the Pamlico Sound, favorable NE winds continued, 10 to 15kts and made Oriental (the sailing capitol of North Carolina, they say there are 900 people and and 2500 sailboats), by early afternoon. A neat little town with good marine supply and hardware stores...The mates "shopped til they dropped" in the many galleries.

We are now in shrimper country...expected to see "Bubba" or "Forest Gump" on the decks of the shrimp boats or the docks. Watching the shrimpers with there spreaders and long nets in the sunset was a beautiful sight. We dined at "Steamers" with all you can eat shrimp...but service was sooo slooow ...we're learin' th't in the south, nothin' happens fast!

Stayed a second day at Oriental Marina, and enjoyed the local scene...Halloween, Capt Mud's favorite holiday! Hay rides, pumpkins and all....We're waiting for 1 November, so we could go below latitude 35 and keep the insurance company happy...and a nice tiki bar.

ICW mile "181"

On to Beauford/Moorehead City and the Bogue Sound...

OOPS....Mother nature had something to say! "NOEL"....that's not a Christmas Carol....

Thursday November 1st....Forecast NE 35 to 50 kt winds...heavy seas on the outside, wind driven tides and flooding on the inside, ICW...Strong high pressure front tonight and the tropical storm, Noel, coming up the coast... We had to leave Oriental Marina, our reservation ended and "everyone" is coming off the Ocean and picking up hooks and heading for marinas...could not get into Moorehead City, south, so we were able to find a new marina nearby, Whittaker Pointe Marina, just opened ... not yet in the books, but a great spot for the next two nights...

We are hunkered down, extra dock lines and fenders. Expect the wind driven tide to flood the docks tonight...

......and I had time to write the blog....photos to follow....I will set up a site on "web shots . com" with all the photos...easier then posting on blog...

Hope to leave Friday/Saturday and make Swansboro N.C. ICW mile 239...

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Cape May, New Jersey to Cape Charles, Virginia











When we last left you boys and girls...We had a portside visit from Capt Harborwatch's friends Trudi and John, who were weekending at Cape May. We headed up the Delaware Bay the next morning, Monday October 15th, to the Chesapeake, via the (C&D) Chesapeake and Delaware canal. We caught the tide change around the tip of New Jersey, up to the C&D canal. At one point, there was a parade of sailboats and tankers, catching the favorable tide. We docked in Chesapeake City, Delaware, at the western end of the C&D canal, adjacent to the "Tiki Bar". Capt Mud's little Sis, Judy, joined the party for a dinner (and insight to Cap Mud's ancestors) on shore.


Then off to Annapolis. We tied up to the dock of Capt. Mud's old drum and bugle corps buddy, Billy. There elegant historic home in Annapolis harbor, afforded a beautiful view. He and his wife Judy were gracious hosts allowing us to stay several days while we replaced Malabar's wounded dingy. The time in Annapolis allowed us an inspiring visit to the Naval Academy.



Traveling across the Chesapeake, we set out for the famed St. Michaels on the eastern shore of Maryland, there we visited the Chesapeake Maritime Museum. ( George Bush was coming in the next day for a speech and lunch with Dick Cheney, we were not invited to lunch so we left).



Then zigzagged back across to the western side of the Chesapeake to the Patuxant River and Solomon Island. We were intercepted by an motley crew on a Viking ship, waving sabres and shields. (They offered to purchase Malabar's first mate, but Capt Haborwatch refused...asking for a higher price)..The Capt's meeting was held at dinner on the pier on Saturday over drinks (MaiTai and Rum Runner)...



Sunday morning, we set out once again to transverse the Chesapeake, past Tangier's Islands (and numerous crap pots) to Onancock...as the Indians call it "a foggy place", on the eastern shore. This time we were dinner guests of Mrs. Mud's school mate, Eileen and hubby Hans. Heritage dropped anchor, Malabar opted for the town dock. On Monday morning they set out on through fog and vistas of a pristine port.




Heading south along the eastern shore, we reached Cape Charles, Virginia. There, the Floridian resort of Bay Creek offered a respite before setting out to cross the wide Chesapeake headed to Norfolk, Hampton Roads and Portsmouth Va....

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Cape May, New Jersey and Delaware bay - Chesapeake and Delaware Canal

Saturday, October 13th, we arrived in Cape May N.J. after a smooth sail offshore down (37 miles) from Atlantic City; calm seas, with a light breeze from the north. The winds Sunday were out of the north, 10 - 15 kts, not good for a 55 mile '"trek" up north the Delaware Bay to the canal. We stayed over a second day at the South Jersey Marina in Cape May...nice accommodations, tucked into Cape May Harbor. It was "Victorian Week" in Cape May and we enjoyed a Trolley Tour of craftsman and Victorian homes and a living history tour of the Physick estate. (Capt Mud stayed awake the entire day).



May get a wind shift ( NE) in morning and take off north to the C&D canal. Photos and more details to follow...

Friday, October 12, 2007

Atlantic City Layover and the (B.E.)

The strong current in the Manasquan river made an interesting departure...Malabar's dinghy had a tear as it was dragged under the dock in the night...stowed on deck, to be repaired when we arrive in Annapolis next week.
Three vessels arrived in Atlantic City Wednesday afternoon after an smooth sail along the Jersey coast. Heritage and Malabar docking at Kammerman's Marina in Clam Creek, across from the Trump marina (a bargain at half the price). Good facilities to ride out the strong "Nor'easter".
Two Sheets... dropped anchor in a small creek off Rum Point in Brigantine, (the strong winds the next two days made the anchoring "interesting").


At dinner, watching the light show at Harrahs, the Capt's planned an early morning departure heading to Cape May. Mother Nature had another plan! Wind and weather.

Small craft warnings extending through Friday, (gale force winds 30-40 kts, 6 -7 ft seas brought all vessels back to port until Saturday) The big wind also ushered in the Big Event. The (B.E.) the birth of Joseph Edward. The layover gave grandparents, Capt. Mud and Mrs. Mud, a chance to leave their boat and head home to share in the joy.



The trip will resume at first light on Saturday to head to Cape May. Wind and seas calm. The sun will shine. A bright new shinning world welcomes little Joseph.

Sunday, October 7, 2007

SECOND LEG ( Port Washington New York to Cape May New Jersey)





























Monday, October 8, 2007 (Columbus Day), First day of Second Leg.

Capt Mud joined Capt Harborwatch at the NSYC in Port Washington and we left for Sandy Hook, New Jersey.. We had a favorable slack tide at 9 am under the Throgs Neck Bridge and headed up the East River to Hell Gate. Passage was uneventful as we had the correct tide and current which took us down the East River past Roosevelt Island and down to Upper New York Bay...

The views of the city, The U.N., Chrysler and Empire State Buildings, the Statue Of Liberty...as well as looking back at lower Manhattan, thinking of the Twin Towers were "awesome". (pictures to follow)...Especially to Capt Harborwatch and his first mate as former "New Yorkers"...

After some interesting navigating, ducking inbound ships in lower New York Bay, we took a mooring at the Atlantic Highlands Yacht Club...Met up with a fellow Monomoy Yacht Club Member (Ocean Star) and a friend (Two Sheets To The Wind), sailing down from New Hampshire to Stuart, Florida. Ocean Star is headed for the Virgin Islands.

Tuesday, October 9, day 2.

Some concerns about an approaching cold front were correct!...we left about 7 am...beautiful calm ocean, 5 - 10 Kts NE...we headed for Barnegate Bay 50 miles down the coast...
Cold front hit us early at 10:30am...hours earlier then expected. 20 - 30 Kts winds turned a calm sea to a rough 3 -4+ seas and more...Foul weather gear, life jackets and tethers were the uniform of the day...

We were able to cut our trip short and jumped into Manasquan Inlet...we were lucky and get a berth at Brielle Marine. Two Sheets To... and Ocean Star also jumped in from the ocean and are staying the night.

Hope to leave in the morning for Atlantic City with Two Sheets To... and Ocean Star.

Thursday, October 4, 2007

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

UNDERWAY (First Leg - Chatham Cape Cod to Port Washington New York)

DAY 1 -September 29, 2007
The vessels Heritage and Malabar head out bright and early from Monomoy Yacht Club, Stage Harbor, Chatham, bound for Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vinyard, 7:30 AM. Calm sea and sky, "15 to 20 kts NE wind" predicted.

The Heritage crew is joined by URI sailing team, Nick and Jeff. While underway ... the hardy crews handle a grounding at Stage Harbor entrance, squalls and northeast winds 22 - 28 knots. Malabar's dingy flips loosing it's oars during a 30 kt gust.

Once in Oak Bluffs, winds calm, sun shines and crews enjoy a hearty meal...

DAY 2
Leaving Oak Bluffs 7 AM, headed through Woods Hole across Buzzards Bay and on to Newport. Light winds, 5 to 10 kts out of NE...Mid afternoon arrival, mooring just off Bannister Wharf. Many Americas Cup training crews sighted. Dinner at Italian restaurant, founded by former Newport mayor. Newport, a sailors haven...modern and classic sloops of all sizes and and vintage.

DAY 3
Leaving Newport, Narragansett Bay, 7 AM, it was a bright, clear and beautiful morning with almost unlimited visibility. As we cleared Point Judith looking southeast we had a clear view of Block Island on the horizon. In sailing Block Island Sound we worked our way north of Fishers Island, past Mystic and New London, Connecticut towards the Connecticut river and Old Saybrook.

Plum Island and Orient Point were visible as we approached the lighthouse to Old Saybrook Yacht Club on the Connecticut River. Low river tides necessitate moving to a deeper water mooring. A stroll to town incorporated visits to local hardware store and West Marine.

DAY 4 - October 2, 2007
Because of low water and fast running river tides, the captains decide to head into the channel at 5 AM. In pitch black, we made our way from buoy to buoy by flashlight/GPS, to clear the Old Saybrook lighthouse, entering Long Island Sound to continue the trip south. A spectacular sunrise at 6:45 AM made the early rising more enjoyable...

As the sun rose, it began to warm up and we shed our layers of warm clothing and foul weather gear. We set a course across Long Island Sound staying on the Conn. shore to minimize the effect of the current to help us make Port Washington by early afternoon. By mid day the tide changed and we set a course to the north shore of Long Island and Port Washington in Manhasset Bay.

We had a warm welcome at the North Shore Yacht Club, which had moorings and facilities ready for Capt's Haborwatch and Mud..( NSYC is where the Capt's were members before heading north to Chatham , Cape Cod and the Monomoy Yacht Club).

Capt Mud headed to New Jersey to await the "blessed event".Capt Haborwatch, took up lodgings at his son's home in Port Washington...awaiting news from New Jersey!

The next leg of the trip will take us through Hell Gate, the East River and lower New York Bay with a planned stop in Sandy Hook New Jersey before heading south along the Jersey coast to Cape May...

To be continued....